Hawai'i Adventures

picking up the missed pieces

2008-04-14T15:53:00.000-07:00

Ok, this is our last planned blog for Hawaii, in which we try to cover anything we may have missed:

Of the Big Island’s five surfaced shield volcanoes, two of them loom over the rest: Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea.

Mauna Loa, “long mountain,” is the largest mountain in the world with most of her mass looming under the sea. She is the home of Volcanoes national park, which was one of our first blog posts. Still actively erupting, as we’ve shown you previously, she provides the grounding force and foundation for this island.

Actually, for the first time since the early 80s, Kilauea’s main crater has “blown,” meaning she’s spewing rocks and dangerously high levels of Sulfuric acid gas.

The National Park has been closed for the time being, and no one has any idea when it may reopen. These mass clouds are covering much of the island as a thick blanket blocking the sun and the view of the horizon. At times, even on the far side of the island, we haven’t even been able to see half a mile away. Even with the enormity of her effects, her body still sits in the shadow of the dormant volcano towering to her North.

Mauna Kea, “white mountain,” is the tallest mountain in the world.

Though impressive at 14,000 feet elevation, this visible peak actually surpasses Everest due to her secrete: the additional 19,000 feet hidden below sea level. She joins earth and sky with her veil of snow and clouds.

This culturally and spiritually sacred place is home to the goddesses of snow and mist. Stone shrines and burial grounds are speckled across her summit and slopes. Seen as both a sacred ancestor herself, as well as the umbilical cord linking lineage, she unites hawai’ian’s with their divine origin.

Astronomers today are standing on her summit and looking back at the origins of us all: the stars. Some of the best observatories in the world are clustered on her peak, free of civilization’s light pollution. Here, they carry on the ancient Polynesian tradition of studying the majestic starry sky.

These two monoliths of mountains hold great mana. As respected elders, they impart blessings and knowledge on those who come to them showing respect and seeking wisdom.

This is where we swam with WILD DOLPHINS (very respectfully of course)!!!

When we were writing about Puna, we some how forgot Lava tree Park.

Named for the many tree molds (lava cooled around a tree that then burn away leaving a mold in the rock) and lava trees (a tree mold where the still fluid lava around the mold flowed away leaving an erect memorial of where the forest once stood).

(Anyone else thinking ACDC???)

Its winding trail is speckled with private corners for pondering in solitude.

Along the SE coastline we found this jet black beach.

Look how dark that sand is! Even the waves looked black. We spent a relaxing afternoon reading and watching the waters.

We LOVE all the different fruits here. We ferment this Noni fruit in a jar in the back window of our car. It smells like Limburger cheese, but it’s one of the healthiest juices out there. We collect coconuts and open them with our machete. Then we get to enjoy their juice and flesh while relaxing on the beach.

We have not photos, but two of our favorit fruits (chocolate sapote and atemoya) both have a custard texture. We just scoop them out with a spoon and enjoy our unique desert.

Kailua-Kona is the main tourist hub town, yet it still manages to capture genuine charm. The streets are dotted with tiny churches and Heiau’s (sacred temple sites).

We have our favorite little hangouts here, including a place we nicknamed “mongoose corner.”

We’ve greatly enjoyed the frisky antics of the 10 or so individuals who share this grassy knoll with the cats. And just look at this view from right there in that nook of the parking lot.

Before the vog invaded every vista, you could see the clear blue ocean from almost anywhere in town. We took it for granted that it would always be there and hurry to take photos of all the scenes I wanted. Now, although still green and flowery and emanating magic, the sky is always white with occasional rays breaking through.

I guess it’s helping us adjust to going back home. Even without the classic blues, this place still feels like a paradise. Everyday we visit the ocean, learning the secrets of the waves. We’ve learned so much and are excited to return often.

North Route Drive

2008-04-14T14:43:00.000-07:00

And now for a short journey across the north side of Hawai’i.

A little North of Hilo, nestled into the back of a florescent green, mossy ravine, is the horsetail-like Akaka falls. The easy going trail is lined with miniature falls and effervescent streams.

The additional piece to the trail was blocked but Fil found an alternate route to explore the private waterfall in the back. Here, even parking lot views are this beautiful:

One of the most well known images of this island is Waipio Valley from this particular viewpoint.

We had intended to do the day trip hike crisscrossing the gushing creeks and veering onto the dark beach seen below; however, after discovering that the breathtaking falls deep into the valley was temporary absence, we decided on other adventures for the day. But the view alone was completely worth the trip.

Waimea seems to belong anywhere but a Hawai’ian island.

Situated in the heart of severely deep hills, this town is surrounded by unusually rolling grasslands. Gleaming in the bright sunlight, each blade glows intensely yellowish-green creating a sea of wavering light. Now that the winter is fading into spring, the pastures are becoming golden-yellow mountains. Befitting such countryside, this is also the home of Paniolos, the renowned Hawai’ian cowboys. Architecture abandons the tropically breezy structures and instead reflects ranch style inspirations. The one characteristic that is classily Hawai’ian is the vibrant ocean view along its roadsides.

At the end of one of our drives along the North side, we opted to head past the tiny, peaceful town of Hawi and into the most northern tip of the island. We were surprised to find the spectacular view that was hiding at the end of the road. Somehow even more awe-inspiring than Waipio, this valley opened into a cornucopia of blues. The sea wove shades and depths into a magnificent arrangement below. We have a photo we'd love to share. . .of course we can't seem to find that right now so we'll have to add it later after it reappears.

Greater Hilo

2008-04-12T12:35:00.000-07:00

A strong sense of community, history and culture has managed to survive, and even thrive, in Hilo. Able to escape much of the tourist trap mentality, despite being built right on the ocean and surrounded by tropical greenery, this is a place that exemplifies living simply. As a hub city full of people who were raised here with the Aloha spirit, Hilo offers many free or inexpensive delights.

On Wednesday and Saturday mornings neighborhood commerce suddenly springs to life at the Hilo Market.

Both curious and experienced shoppers bustle amongst easily affordable goods priced for locals.

Rows of stalls are all piled high with farm-fresh vegetables, delicious snacks and deserts, vivid flower arrangements, as well as local and international crafts. Socializing groups “talk story” and catch up on the latest chat between purchases of the week’s groceries and the day’s lunch.

After the market, check out the historical Palace Theater with its low-key, traditional hula and ukulele shows highlighted with historical videos. Or check out a movie on the large screen a few blocks away at the dollar theater.

I swear half the city is made up of parks.

There is even a state park right in the middle of town where people bike and boat.

Whether if be a picnic lunch, full moon gathering, or community event, Coconut Island is a romantic excursion just a short walking bridge away from town.

Even in the middle of the week, the tiny waves and coconut palms exude the leisurely vibe of a lazy Sunday afternoon.

On the edge of the bay resides a well used Japanese Garden.

Recreation seekers flock here to jog, fish, or simply relax in the well manicured gardens.

In addition to the elegant bridges, ponds, and flora, there is a traditional Japanese tea house facing the garden. We greatly enjoyed parking by the tall trees and green grass while we listened to the library’s Harry Potter Books on CD complemented by bird song.

Families seem to spend a great deal of time out of doors barbequing, lounging, and swimming. Beaches fill quickly on weekends. One of our favorite beaches was Richardson’s, which offered clear tide pools and swimming holes protected from the waves. Small children splashed in the bright blue water while parents relaxed on the grass by the shore. I don’t think we took any photos on those days, but I had to grab my camera the morning after an unusually large storm. Where demur waves normally splashed playfully against the rock breaker, large swells now crashed, creating powerful sprays reaching up to 20 and 30 feet high.

As a tribute to both the beauty of this tiny city on the water, and its connection to nature, Rainbow Falls is actually found inside the city boundaries. At first sight this water fall presents an exciting splash of grandeur.

Lush vegetation frame misty cascades showcasing occasional rainbows and plays of light. Follow the rock staircase to the less frequented swimming holes and views from above the falls.

Fil crawled up to the top of the falls to capture a shot of a rainbow in the mist.

On a later visit, he was eventually able to gently coax me up there. . .at least close enough to get this see this much

and enjoy the hidden cove just above the drop, perfectly carved for laying back and cloud watching.

Puna and S. Pt.

2008-04-09T13:45:00.000-07:00

Since everyone’s energy patterns have their personal vibrations, we all resonate with the vibrations of different locations here on our planet. Like so many who visit here and never leave, we both highly resonate with the big island of Hawaii’s unique field.

I (Jennifer) love every place and continent I’ve ever been. Especially in Thailand, Peru, and Greece, we met people who raved about how that particular place was more magic than the rest of the world, or such. I certainly enjoyed all those places and experienced the enchantment of the lands and ecology, but I never felt more connected to any one of them than any other place.

The Pacific N.W. has always resonated with my soul. I feel “it” in the waters and tree there. They somehow enhance my being and bring out the best in me when I connect with their spirit. The stones of the S.W. states, thought nearly polar opposites from home, induce a similar state in my mind and body when I keep myself open to them. Those are the only two places in the whole world that truly called to me before, even with all of the “power places” and visual wonders I’ve visited.

For many years, I had (actually Fil did too) a strong intuitive need to live in Hawaii for some time. Now we certainly know why we had that message for so long. Our bodies and souls simply resonate beautifully with the vibration of this island’s energy, and that resonation is manifested as clarity of mind, lightness in our hearts, and a natural peace filling every day.

We are completely in love with this place. One particular place here that feels like home to our spirits, is South Point.

Sever intensity, introspective clarity, or soothing love. . .what ever it is that you’re seeking, South Point will provide.

Violently pounding waves thrash the cliffs and beach, while soft grassy planes roll gently towards craggy rock faces. Warped trees lean at sharp angles, whipped and mangled from ferocious wind currents.

In the placidity of distant cow pastures, windmills stand solemnly.

Scarcely seeming to turn, their steadfast stance exemplifies strength even in commanding storms. Peace incarnate swims slowly through the deep waters: whales provide a show by their very presence.

Whether you visit this southern most point in the U.S., to soul search, or simply to relax while fishing or wandering, you’ll find exactly what you need.

Emotions are manifested by the chameleon-like energy of the place, effectively illuminating the next step on the path for our higher selves.

In another corner of the island,

Puna is an Eastern district known for its laid back attitude, bohemian living standards, and hippie community.

Its lush jungle land intermixes with streaks of lava deserts, both abutting deep blue ocean waves. Night’s symphony starts early with the intense, undulating chorus of coqui frogs.

My personal favorite features are the tunneled roads beneath towering acacia trees whose long arms reach up as if playing London-Bridge with the rugged cars and hitch-hikers.

Along the Puna coast lies one of its well-loved treasures. . .

Stepping into the tranquil waters, the natural warmth washes away any residue of less-than-peaceful thoughts.

The Hot Pond is fed by a therapeutic combination of trickling volcanic thermal springs and gently lapping white waves of the ocean.

With the perfect balance of sea salt and fresh water, the wetness against your skin feels both clean and silky.

Small fish swim gracefully around the visitors, curiously exploring and “kissing” their toes in hopes of food.

Seeming to bring forth spiritual inspiration and self-expression, this pool is certainly a place to nourish both body and soul.

LAVA!!

2008-04-07T23:20:00.000-07:00

Pele’s surprise inspired hoards of people to embark on a powerful journey, from around the island and beyond. Driving in long lines of traffic, parking on grassy shoulders many miles from the start of the impromptu trail, and hiking often six miles or more each direction, swarms made the pilgrimage to see and celebrate the birth of new earth.

For many months, all lava flowed in areas viewable only by helicopter. This sudden emergence of molten rock had been long awaited by many. We both had always dreamed of seeing the flows and I had previously thought we would miss out on this once in a lifetime opportunity. Groups conducted blessings with Hula and chants amid the bustling onlookers who ranged from ecstatic to awestruck to meditative at the volcanic scene before them.

There were three main sights. First, the never ending line of visitors gathered around a trough (maybe 50 yards long?) slowly filling with lava oozing,

hardening black,

cracking to reveal red glow,

and oozing again.

Second, there were the lines of lava slowly creeping along the remains of a now burning patch of forest. Methane gas exploded from the trees and flames dances against the darkening sky.

The third site was the boiling and steaming ocean as the liquid stone met the sea. Of course, in the mountain’s mischievous nature, the public never had the chance to see it. Lava closed the trail by flowing across it during the opening ceremony.

Yet the two other sights still offered plenty of amazement. Up on the mountain, a distant forest fire formed an orange mushroom cloud of smoke to loom over the heads of all the spectators.

For many of those there, the whole event generated deep connection to the natural world, to creation, and even to other people with whom they bore witness to our earth’s mana.

Volcanoes National Park

2008-03-18T16:18:00.000-07:00

Famous for its title as “the most active volcano in the world,” and as being the home of Hawai’ian Goddess Pele, Kilauea has been erupting almost continuously since 1982.

Sulfuric fog rising from the caldera can cause a heavy haze glistening in the sunlight.

Steam vents and sulfur banks poor white vapor and gases from cracks in the rocky surface. Could this be the breath of Pele herself?

Magma beneath the crust creates these emissions as well as the tumultuous environment here in Volcanoes National Park. Throughout history, molten lava has spit, spilled, spewed and splattered across the mountainside, leaving a blackened landscape. Although able to change form, Pele’s true body is that of lava, with which she engulfs everything in her path.

Reminders of past forests are found in the molds from where trees once stood.

Where there were once fiery cauldrons of liquid rock, lakes of stone waves now remain, waiting to be explored.

Entire fields of lava have hardened into a beautifully bizarre scene. With time they have cracked and weathered, harboring courageous flora on this wind-swept plain.

Be sure not to let Pele’s conspicuous acts of destruction overshadow the subtle underlying current of creation.

The soul of the woodlands, seemingly swallowed by Pele, is reemerging from the rich volcanic soil to produce lush rainforests. The cool air and radiant growth surge with freshness, as if to sooth the burnt flesh of the earth.

Ferns grow with abundance.

They uncoil from fiddleheads too tiny to reveal the magnificence that waits within.

Their spring-green foliage abounds, from succulent ground cover,

to tree sized giants reaching 30 feet into the canopy above.

Even under the smallest of these Goliaths, it’s easy to let your imagination run wild.

People have been using this unique land for countless generations, pre-dating written history. Ancient petroglyphs mark many sacred sites and hint at a vibrant Hawai’ian culture.

Resting on the rim of the caldera, the Volcano House hotel possesses a heart of flames. Its hearth glows with a fire burning continuously since 1871.

Today, the land of this national park is full of sights that will catch your breath, trails leading to hidden beauty, and adventures waiting to happen.

Where the ocean slowly erodes the shore, a spectacular sea arch has been sculpted by pounding waves.

In the fragmented rocks along the trails, miniature olivine gems sparkle in the sunlight.

Tubes of lava have emptied like a hose, leaving cave-like passageways.

Their dark walls have been lit so you can explore them freely.

If you’re quiet, and very lucky, you just may get to see one the parks highly endangered residents. In this protected land, Nene geese can find sanctuary in these scrublands.

Pele’s intensity can be felt throughout this mystical land, not only in the starkness of the scorched and scalded,

but also in the fiery exuberance of all who live in this volatile splendor.

Quick Note

2008-03-16T21:56:00.000-07:00

Hi, all. In case you didn't know already, you can click on the photos to see them enlarged. They are over-sharpened and distorted as the web changes them a bit, but you can still see them better in larger form. So, the next photos will be better quality.

BIg Island & Place of Refuge

2008-03-16T13:09:00.000-07:00

Our adventures continue here on the Big Island of Hawai'i.
We have taken a free-lance photojournalist job, which we are doing mainly for fun and not profit. As part of the "work," we travel around the island while we enjoy, write and photograph some of the amazing places found here.

We will start with a tour of our favorite place. . .Pu'uhonua o honaunau.

This national historic park is home to spectacular beaches, a recreated village, and most especially, to the Pu’uhonua, Hawai’ian for “place of refuge.” As soon as you enter the grounds you can feel its power and tranquility.

After stopping by the visitor center, embark on your self-guided walking tour. This starts with a reconstructed royal village where you will find a genuine historical experience. It teaches customs and culture of this complex society, free of tourist-based stereotypes.

Witness demonstrators practicing traditional skills then meander through postcard perfect coconut palms as you explore native buildings. Once home to chiefs, this area was kapu, meaning taboo and off limits to those outside of the ruling class.

Sit and relax in the dappled shade as you challenge a friend to a game of Konane, a traditional Hawai’ian game similar to checkers. Of course you’ll be playing a leisurely round instead of defending your life as the historical chiefs once did. These innocent-looking game pieces of black lava pebbles and white coral fragments on a chiseled stone table were used to settle disputes. Losing could mean the loss of your land, your wife, and your life.

Close by reside various fish species, being fattened for the King in his personal fish ponds.

Once a canoe landing for rulers, you can easily imagine these tapering waves gliding a chief’s outrigger onto the sandy shore. This gentle cove now provides a safe haven for the green sea turtles resting only a few meters from excited visitors.

Standing like sentinels, statues of Ohia wood mark the area as kapu. These Ki’i were mistakenly translated as Tiki by missionaries. Weathered and hand-carved, they watch over the peace of this place from the grounds of Hale o Keawe temple. Even today, offerings are still left on the lailai, the tiered platform. Some of the gifts are for the gods, some for the people, and some for the land. Some people say that adjacent to this temple lies one of Hawai’i’s intense vortexes of spiritual energy. . .

Behind this thatched structure stands a wall, 10 feet tall and 17 feet thick, separating the royal residence from the historical place of refuge beyond. People could find asylum here, if they had broken a strict kapu/law, or if they needed protection during a battle. Believed to be established in the 12^th century, it was once part of a system of 30 places of refuge dispersed across the islands. Most were disassembled after the arrival of the missionaries. Today, it is the only one of its kind remaining. This sacred site still emanates the peace it once protected.

Do not miss a visit to the tide-pools just West of the temple and wall, which are natural wonders alive with many life forms.

As you step out onto the hardened lava, yellow-gold flashes may catch your eye in the surrounding waves. As you near the smoother water of the tide pools, these wavering gems morph into yellow tang fish.

Black crabs dance on black rocks, seeming almost to defy gravity as they leap in their ballet among the swelling waves. Like the detectives of the sea, transparent shrimp investigate every crack and curiosity. During high tide, needlefish and parrotfish can be observed in the main tide pools’ channel. Almost anytime of day, threadfin butterflyfish, spectacular moorish idols and even moray eels are waiting to be discovered.

Established as a sanctuary for people, this place is also a haven of rest and peace for the honu, or sacred Hawaiian green sea turtle. They casually graze the algae in the water and rest in the sun on the warm black rocks of the pools. . .so watch your step as their polished shells can look like marbled stones. No single animal embodies the peace of this joining of land and sea better than these magnificent and ancient animals. They deserve our respect and to be given space.

A large rectangular rock beckons as an ideal place to sit for a spell and watch the rhythmic dance of the waves. Reportedly, this was the favorite resting place of the high chief of Kona. Look down and you can see the holes that may have held the canopy posts to provide shade during the era of its favor. (No, that's not Jen)

As you say goodbye to the place of refuge, be sure to take one last look at the basking Honu. Water lapping at their shells as they nap in the warm rays, these fellow creatures will leave you touched by a sense of deep peace and wisdom.

If you’re ready to do some basking of your own, or to explore other sea creatures up close and personal, walk the short road to Honaunau. Contrasting the sacred realm of Pu’uhonua, the atmosphere at this locale is both chill and exciting. Here you can join the lounging sunbathers, or jump into the turquoise waters for spectacular underwater gardens.

This was the first place we went snorkeling. I (Jen) had never snorkeled before, and from that moment I was hooked!