picking up the missed pieces

Ok, this is our last planned blog for Hawaii, in which we try to cover anything we may have missed:

Of the Big Island’s five surfaced shield volcanoes, two of them loom over the rest: Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea.

Mauna Loa, “long mountain,” is the largest mountain in the world with most of her mass looming under the sea. She is the home of Volcanoes national park, which was one of our first blog posts. Still actively erupting, as we’ve shown you previously, she provides the grounding force and foundation for this island.



Actually, for the first time since the early 80s, Kilauea’s main crater has “blown,” meaning she’s spewing rocks and dangerously high levels of Sulfuric acid gas.


The National Park has been closed for the time being, and no one has any idea when it may reopen. These mass clouds are covering much of the island as a thick blanket blocking the sun and the view of the horizon. At times, even on the far side of the island, we haven’t even been able to see half a mile away. Even with the enormity of her effects, her body still sits in the shadow of the dormant volcano towering to her North.

Mauna Kea, “white mountain,” is the tallest mountain in the world.

Though impressive at 14,000 feet elevation, this visible peak actually surpasses Everest due to her secrete: the additional 19,000 feet hidden below sea level. She joins earth and sky with her veil of snow and clouds.

This culturally and spiritually sacred place is home to the goddesses of snow and mist. Stone shrines and burial grounds are speckled across her summit and slopes. Seen as both a sacred ancestor herself, as well as the umbilical cord linking lineage, she unites hawai’ian’s with their divine origin.

Astronomers today are standing on her summit and looking back at the origins of us all: the stars. Some of the best observatories in the world are clustered on her peak, free of civilization’s light pollution. Here, they carry on the ancient Polynesian tradition of studying the majestic starry sky.

These two monoliths of mountains hold great mana. As respected elders, they impart blessings and knowledge on those who come to them showing respect and seeking wisdom.

This is where we swam with WILD DOLPHINS (very respectfully of course)!!!

When we were writing about Puna, we some how forgot Lava tree Park.

Named for the many tree molds (lava cooled around a tree that then burn away leaving a mold in the rock) and lava trees (a tree mold where the still fluid lava around the mold flowed away leaving an erect memorial of where the forest once stood).

(Anyone else thinking ACDC???)

Its winding trail is speckled with private corners for pondering in solitude.

Along the SE coastline we found this jet black beach.

Look how dark that sand is! Even the waves looked black. We spent a relaxing afternoon reading and watching the waters.

We LOVE all the different fruits here. We ferment this Noni fruit in a jar in the back window of our car. It smells like Limburger cheese, but it’s one of the healthiest juices out there. We collect coconuts and open them with our machete. Then we get to enjoy their juice and flesh while relaxing on the beach.

We have not photos, but two of our favorit fruits (chocolate sapote and atemoya) both have a custard texture. We just scoop them out with a spoon and enjoy our unique desert.

Kailua-Kona is the main tourist hub town, yet it still manages to capture genuine charm. The streets are dotted with tiny churches and Heiau’s (sacred temple sites).

We have our favorite little hangouts here, including a place we nicknamed “mongoose corner.”

We’ve greatly enjoyed the frisky antics of the 10 or so individuals who share this grassy knoll with the cats. And just look at this view from right there in that nook of the parking lot.

Before the vog invaded every vista, you could see the clear blue ocean from almost anywhere in town. We took it for granted that it would always be there and hurry to take photos of all the scenes I wanted. Now, although still green and flowery and emanating magic, the sky is always white with occasional rays breaking through.

I guess it’s helping us adjust to going back home. Even without the classic blues, this place still feels like a paradise. Everyday we visit the ocean, learning the secrets of the waves. We’ve learned so much and are excited to return often.

North Route Drive

And now for a short journey across the north side of Hawai’i.

A little North of Hilo, nestled into the back of a florescent green, mossy ravine, is the horsetail-like Akaka falls. The easy going trail is lined with miniature falls and effervescent streams.

The additional piece to the trail was blocked but Fil found an alternate route to explore the private waterfall in the back. Here, even parking lot views are this beautiful:

One of the most well known images of this island is Waipio Valley from this particular viewpoint.

We had intended to do the day trip hike crisscrossing the gushing creeks and veering onto the dark beach seen below; however, after discovering that the breathtaking falls deep into the valley was temporary absence, we decided on other adventures for the day. But the view alone was completely worth the trip.

Waimea seems to belong anywhere but a Hawai’ian island.

Situated in the heart of severely deep hills, this town is surrounded by unusually rolling grasslands. Gleaming in the bright sunlight, each blade glows intensely yellowish-green creating a sea of wavering light. Now that the winter is fading into spring, the pastures are becoming golden-yellow mountains. Befitting such countryside, this is also the home of Paniolos, the renowned Hawai’ian cowboys. Architecture abandons the tropically breezy structures and instead reflects ranch style inspirations. The one characteristic that is classily Hawai’ian is the vibrant ocean view along its roadsides.

At the end of one of our drives along the North side, we opted to head past the tiny, peaceful town of Hawi and into the most northern tip of the island. We were surprised to find the spectacular view that was hiding at the end of the road. Somehow even more awe-inspiring than Waipio, this valley opened into a cornucopia of blues. The sea wove shades and depths into a magnificent arrangement below. We have a photo we'd love to share. . .of course we can't seem to find that right now so we'll have to add it later after it reappears.

Greater Hilo

A strong sense of community, history and culture has managed to survive, and even thrive, in Hilo. Able to escape much of the tourist trap mentality, despite being built right on the ocean and surrounded by tropical greenery, this is a place that exemplifies living simply. As a hub city full of people who were raised here with the Aloha spirit, Hilo offers many free or inexpensive delights.

On Wednesday and Saturday mornings neighborhood commerce suddenly springs to life at the Hilo Market.

Both curious and experienced shoppers bustle amongst easily affordable goods priced for locals.

Rows of stalls are all piled high with farm-fresh vegetables, delicious snacks and deserts, vivid flower arrangements, as well as local and international crafts. Socializing groups “talk story” and catch up on the latest chat between purchases of the week’s groceries and the day’s lunch.

After the market, check out the historical Palace Theater with its low-key, traditional hula and ukulele shows highlighted with historical videos. Or check out a movie on the large screen a few blocks away at the dollar theater.

I swear half the city is made up of parks.

There is even a state park right in the middle of town where people bike and boat.

Whether if be a picnic lunch, full moon gathering, or community event, Coconut Island is a romantic excursion just a short walking bridge away from town.



Even in the middle of the week, the tiny waves and coconut palms exude the leisurely vibe of a lazy Sunday afternoon.

On the edge of the bay resides a well used Japanese Garden.

Recreation seekers flock here to jog, fish, or simply relax in the well manicured gardens.



In addition to the elegant bridges, ponds, and flora, there is a traditional Japanese tea house facing the garden. We greatly enjoyed parking by the tall trees and green grass while we listened to the library’s Harry Potter Books on CD complemented by bird song.

Families seem to spend a great deal of time out of doors barbequing, lounging, and swimming. Beaches fill quickly on weekends. One of our favorite beaches was Richardson’s, which offered clear tide pools and swimming holes protected from the waves. Small children splashed in the bright blue water while parents relaxed on the grass by the shore. I don’t think we took any photos on those days, but I had to grab my camera the morning after an unusually large storm. Where demur waves normally splashed playfully against the rock breaker, large swells now crashed, creating powerful sprays reaching up to 20 and 30 feet high.

As a tribute to both the beauty of this tiny city on the water, and its connection to nature, Rainbow Falls is actually found inside the city boundaries. At first sight this water fall presents an exciting splash of grandeur.

Lush vegetation frame misty cascades showcasing occasional rainbows and plays of light. Follow the rock staircase to the less frequented swimming holes and views from above the falls.

Fil crawled up to the top of the falls to capture a shot of a rainbow in the mist.

On a later visit, he was eventually able to gently coax me up there. . .at least close enough to get this see this much

and enjoy the hidden cove just above the drop, perfectly carved for laying back and cloud watching.